<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:geo="http://www.w3.org/2003/01/geo/wgs84_pos#" xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Towards a Type Study of Stanley 151 Spokeshaves</title>
	<atom:link href="http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/</link>
	<description>Peachey is a bookbinder and conservator in private practice. He also invents, makes, and sells bookbinding and conservation tools.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 14:54:45 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.com/</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: 18th Century Trade Binding &#171; Work of the Hand:</title>
		<link>http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/#comment-13230</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[18th Century Trade Binding &#171; Work of the Hand:]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Nov 2012 02:32:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/?p=121#comment-13230</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] knife, I created a long bevel out along the edges of the leather and thinned the spine area using a modified spokeshave. This is not an 18th c. tool, but it certainly makes life easier. After paring, the leather is dyed [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] knife, I created a long bevel out along the edges of the leather and thinned the spine area using a modified spokeshave. This is not an 18th c. tool, but it certainly makes life easier. After paring, the leather is dyed [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Three Things &#171; Work of the Hand:</title>
		<link>http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/#comment-8361</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Three Things &#171; Work of the Hand:]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Oct 2011 23:53:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/?p=121#comment-8361</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] and I&#8217;m very glad that Jeff was there to keep me from completely ruining mine. Peachey has a rather extensive essay about spokeshaves that includes a bit of a history lesson, instructions for the modifications, and links to other [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] and I&#8217;m very glad that Jeff was there to keep me from completely ruining mine. Peachey has a rather extensive essay about spokeshaves that includes a bit of a history lesson, instructions for the modifications, and links to other [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jeff Peachey</title>
		<link>http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/#comment-7347</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jeff Peachey]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:23:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/?p=121#comment-7347</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Paul-
A couple of things.  Some Stanley shaves need to have the blade cap shortened, filed or ground, and some actually need it lengthened a bit by extending the hole a bit. It seems to depend on what batch it was made in.  I always flatten the bottom of it as well, to get firm pressure over the whole length of the blade, and to keep small scraps of leather from catching under it.

Strop the blade, with the blade in place, by drawing it backwards.  Although will sharpen it, it drastically changes the cutting angle, so that you will have a lot more sharpening work next time. Some English binders do it on a piece of binders board, which is pretty abrasive.

The only problem I&#039;ve had by lowering the body angle too much is the tapped threads for the adjustment screws can start to show (not a big deal, really) but it is hard to hold when it is so low.

Thanks for the body casting marks.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul-<br />
A couple of things.  Some Stanley shaves need to have the blade cap shortened, filed or ground, and some actually need it lengthened a bit by extending the hole a bit. It seems to depend on what batch it was made in.  I always flatten the bottom of it as well, to get firm pressure over the whole length of the blade, and to keep small scraps of leather from catching under it.</p>
<p>Strop the blade, with the blade in place, by drawing it backwards.  Although will sharpen it, it drastically changes the cutting angle, so that you will have a lot more sharpening work next time. Some English binders do it on a piece of binders board, which is pretty abrasive.</p>
<p>The only problem I&#8217;ve had by lowering the body angle too much is the tapped threads for the adjustment screws can start to show (not a big deal, really) but it is hard to hold when it is so low.</p>
<p>Thanks for the body casting marks.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: paul stirling</title>
		<link>http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/#comment-7346</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[paul stirling]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:20:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/?p=121#comment-7346</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[sincere apologies  -  just noticed error in my &#039;typed&#039; email address
:(]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>sincere apologies  &#8211;  just noticed error in my &#8216;typed&#8217; email address<br />
:(</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: paul stirling</title>
		<link>http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/#comment-7344</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[paul stirling]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:01:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/?p=121#comment-7344</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[probably academic I suspect, and I may well have missed the answer somewhere along the line  -  but would just comment that having now re-profiled the base of two Stanley shaves (for bookbinding purposes) - an issue re the cap iron has come to light.       Both shaves are marked &quot;MADE IN ENG&quot; -  and I have changed the angle in accordance with the original Hewit article i.e. bringing the &#039;flat&#039; of the sole in alignment with the handles.      Re-assembling the shave, I am now aware that aligning the cap iron in the normal (woodworking) position, creates a situation whereby the leading edge of the cap iron protrudes excessively beyond the line of the sole (and would in effect hinder the ability to use the shave at all).      The consequence is that it becomes necessary to withdraw the cap iron backwards  -  such that its retaining screw is near the limit of its anchorage capacity.     Don&#039;t think this is a real problem, and only mention this as being intriguing  -   I don&#039;t recall seeing any comment about this in all the articles detailing the re-profiling of shaves for bookbinding.

I might suggest that I have &#039;over-cooked&#039; the re profiling, and taken the angle of the sole &#039;too low&#039; possibly.    Anyone like to comment??

Having read most of the internet comments regarding adjustments to shaves for the purposes of bookbinding - I notice from one emminent source that  &quot;for the purposes of re-freshing the cutting edge............&quot;the blade needs to be stropped occasionally when paring a skin, to freshen up the blade (I don&#039;t remove the blade from the blade from the handle to do this)&quot;.
Will someone enlighten me as to how it is possible to strop a shave blade without removing it from the handle (body)  -  again, am I missing something here???   

Just for the record (no pun intended) - the bodies of my shaves are marked &#039;X3C&#039;  and &#039;2C&#039;  -  plus of course the usual  &#039;No. 151&#039;, and both have the dual srew adjustments for blade positioning.

I also have a Stanley 53 model, but having been a woodworker as well as a bookbinder, don&#039;t think I can bring myself to &#039;butcher&#039; a 53  -  and think I prefer to leave it for use on wood.

In truth, I have only just finished re-profiling my two shaves for bookbinding purposes, so as of this moment am unsure as to exactly how they will perform, but am hoping that the lower angle of the blade plus the increasing in size of the sole, will make me a Master Bookbinder.    Do people think I am over optimistic???:)

Paul Stirling.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>probably academic I suspect, and I may well have missed the answer somewhere along the line  &#8211;  but would just comment that having now re-profiled the base of two Stanley shaves (for bookbinding purposes) &#8211; an issue re the cap iron has come to light.       Both shaves are marked &#8220;MADE IN ENG&#8221; &#8211;  and I have changed the angle in accordance with the original Hewit article i.e. bringing the &#8216;flat&#8217; of the sole in alignment with the handles.      Re-assembling the shave, I am now aware that aligning the cap iron in the normal (woodworking) position, creates a situation whereby the leading edge of the cap iron protrudes excessively beyond the line of the sole (and would in effect hinder the ability to use the shave at all).      The consequence is that it becomes necessary to withdraw the cap iron backwards  &#8211;  such that its retaining screw is near the limit of its anchorage capacity.     Don&#8217;t think this is a real problem, and only mention this as being intriguing  &#8211;   I don&#8217;t recall seeing any comment about this in all the articles detailing the re-profiling of shaves for bookbinding.</p>
<p>I might suggest that I have &#8216;over-cooked&#8217; the re profiling, and taken the angle of the sole &#8216;too low&#8217; possibly.    Anyone like to comment??</p>
<p>Having read most of the internet comments regarding adjustments to shaves for the purposes of bookbinding &#8211; I notice from one emminent source that  &#8220;for the purposes of re-freshing the cutting edge&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8221;the blade needs to be stropped occasionally when paring a skin, to freshen up the blade (I don&#8217;t remove the blade from the blade from the handle to do this)&#8221;.<br />
Will someone enlighten me as to how it is possible to strop a shave blade without removing it from the handle (body)  &#8211;  again, am I missing something here???   </p>
<p>Just for the record (no pun intended) &#8211; the bodies of my shaves are marked &#8216;X3C&#8217;  and &#8217;2C&#8217;  &#8211;  plus of course the usual  &#8216;No. 151&#8242;, and both have the dual srew adjustments for blade positioning.</p>
<p>I also have a Stanley 53 model, but having been a woodworker as well as a bookbinder, don&#8217;t think I can bring myself to &#8216;butcher&#8217; a 53  &#8211;  and think I prefer to leave it for use on wood.</p>
<p>In truth, I have only just finished re-profiling my two shaves for bookbinding purposes, so as of this moment am unsure as to exactly how they will perform, but am hoping that the lower angle of the blade plus the increasing in size of the sole, will make me a Master Bookbinder.    Do people think I am over optimistic???:)</p>
<p>Paul Stirling.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
