beating hammers
The hammer pictured below is a beating hammer, and it was made for beating paper and book board. At first glance, it seems to resemble a judge’s gavel, but the head is made of iron, not wood. It is slightly unnerving, yet distinctly pleasurable– an ‘anti-conservation’ experience– to repeatedly beat a textblock with a large hammer.
In late 18th century France, for example, the sheets and books were possibly beaten eight different times. In England, the beaters, a semi-skilled subset of bookbinders, were replaced by what is considered the first bookbinding machine, the rolling machine, in the 1820′s. Beating, or not beating, was also an important in distinguishing between ‘temporary’ structures, and more permanent ones.
Currently, beating hammers are notoriously difficult to find– I have been looking for over a decade. Since the practice of beating has gradually declined throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, many of these hammers must have made some kind of gradual evolution from working tool, to doorstop, to the bottom of the closet, then sold for scrap, or left to rust. Thanks to a hot tip from the anonymous bookbinder, I managed to purchase not one, but two last week.
The first one is a Hickock judging from the overall shape, even though it is not labeled. It is possibly a bit later than the one pictured in the illustration below, which came from Palmer’s A Course in Bookbinding (1927). The shape of the handle is very similar, but a bit simpler than the beaded handle pictured below, and the head is almost exactly the same, note the polished faces, edges of the faces, and the little rim.
The faces are about 3 inches in diameter and it weighs just under 5 lbs– fairly light by beating hammer standards. The Hoole catalogue No. 79 (1911) lists their selection from 5 to 14 lbs. Middleton, in A History of English Craft Bookbinding Technique, reports seeing reference to 16-18 lb. hammers (p.7)
I’m a little unclear if this second hammer is actually a beating hammer, it could also be a gold beaters hammer, which often have a similar weight and face shape. This one weighs about 6 lbs. The handle it came with was very weak and deteriorated, so I carved a new handle in order to use the hammer, as well as polished the faces.
Traditional beating hammers had a bell shape, like the one pictured in Jost Amman’s bookbinder print (1568). This shape continued into the 19th century, like this Harrild & Sons beauty from 1892. I need a bell shaped beating hammer!
If you haven’t tried hand beating, it is instructive for appreciating why older books look, feel and function the way they do. Softer mouldmade and handmade papers can compress up to half the thickness, resulting in a solid, yet light book. The surface of the paper changes. Softer types of book board, such as paste or waterleaf, also compress. Some traditions even lightly beat the leather after covering. The unforgiving hardness of modern book papers and book boards is a modern affliction.
Beating hammers were used with a stone to beat on, although some sources report the iron was also used after 1800. Given the numerous dings and dents on the hammers I purchased have, I suspect they were used on iron. The surface of my Jacques board shear seems to have been used for beating, or perhaps rounding, at some point in its life, given its numerous dings and dents.
Contemporary reports that the stone, or iron, gives such a bounce to the hammer that most of the effort is stopping its rebound, not hammering downward. Middleton, summarizing some of J. C. Huttner’s Englische Miscellen (Band 6, 1802), states:
…the English beat their books harder than do the Germans (though not so keenly), due to the iron block and the standing position of the workman, but especially to the method of holding the hammer. German binders hold the handle so that the tips of the fingers meet underneath, whereas the English have their fingertips meeting on top, so that the back of the hand is underneath, and they strike the book slightly sideways. The hammer bounces back level with the ear from the iron block, and workmen can do it for days on end without complaint. On the Continent books are beaten twice, before folding, and before sewing, but in England, due to the efficiency of the standing presses [ wood frame with an iron screw-jp] it is necessary to beat before sewing only. (p. 253-4)
When making a historical model, using the proper tools adds to the authenticity of the fabrication experience. They certainly make it more fun. And I believe that they subtly, perhaps invisibly, influence perception of the completed model.
Beating hammers are rarely, if ever used for book conservation, so I suspect this one will primarly function as a weight, much like Nicasius Florer used his for in this painting from 1614.
another c. hammond shoe hammer
This is one of the smallest cobblers hammers I have seen, with the diameter of the face just about 1 inch. Most of the bright finish is still intact and the head neatly repaired with three distinctively shaped tacks. The handle is elegantly slender, reminding me of a chasing hammer handle that smiths use. The hammer is stamped “C. HAMMOND / PHILADA / 0″, with the Hammond logo running straight across, rather than curved as pictured in the catalog below. Perhaps this is an earlier style of logo stamping?
This hammer weighs 7.7 oz. with the handle, however the “0″ size listed in the catalog below weights 11 oz., and the “000″ 7 oz., (without the handle) which may contradict my theory, that very generally speaking, hand tools tend to get smaller over time. ”Dinkification” is the technical term for this evolution.
I’ve written about C. Hammond bookbinding hammers before, and also have a rather beat up size 3. Recently, for the first time in 2 decades of collecting, I’ve found a number of signed and numbered cobbler’s hammers– could these be an indication of the current disappearance and dispersal of professional shoe repair shops and their tools?
Catalog image courtesy of Gary Roberts of Toolemera Press, who has posted a PDF of a 1910 C. Hammond & Son trade catalog on his website.
wooden board workshop at the Huntington
This fall, November 8-12, 2010, I will be teaching an intensive five day master class at the Huntington Library in San Marino, California. This will be the first time I’ve taught this class, and hopefully it will be a great introduction to woodworking and the conservation of wood board books. I’m really excited about it and think it will be a lot of fun, as well as a lot of learning. The workshop fee is a very modest $650, and I’m estimating about $150 for materials and some basic woodworking tools. Please contact Justin Johnson ( jjohnson (at) huntington (dot) org) for an application, or if you have questions, please contact me.
WOODEN BOOK BOARDS: THEIR CONSERVATION, HISTORIC CONSTRUCTION AND THE PRAXIS OF WORKING WOOD.
This five day master class will focus on the fundamentals of wooden book boards: the basics of using hand tools to shape wood accurately, easily and efficiently; the making a sample set of wood to identify common historic varieties; the examining of historic techniques of shaping wood; and the making a sample set of common treatments for split boards. Choosing, tuning, using, sharpening and maintaining woodworking tools will also be taught. Exploring some of the complexities of wood technology and how this impacts treatment, storage and handling options for conservation treatments will also be covered. Participants are encouraged to bring documentation concerning specific split board treatment problems for class discussion. No previous woodworking experience is necessary.
Bio: Jeffrey S. Peachey is the owner of a New York City-based studio for the conservation of books and the inventor of conservation tools and machines. He is a Professional Associate in the American Institute for Conservation. For more than 20 years, he has specialized in the conservation of books and paper artifacts for institutions and individuals.
GOALS OF THE WORKSHOP
- Learn how to evaluate, use and maintain basic hand wood working tools.
- Construct a sample set of reference wood commonly encountered in historic book boards.
- Construct a specialized jig to plane thin wood boards.
- Reproduce historic board shapes, channels, tunnels, chamfering and learn to recognize the tools used to make them.
- Construct samples of currently used techniques to repair split and splitting boards, and discuss their applicability in various real world situations.
- Make one sample board from a log, by hand, to understand the historic hand technologies– using a maul, froe, and broad axe.
- Begin to appreciate some of the complexities of wood technology and how this impacts treatment, storage and handling options for real world books.
- Discuss in depth the results of a recent article by Alexis Hagadorn and Jeffrey S. Peachey “The use of parchment to reinforce split wooden bookboards, with preliminary observations into the effects of RH cycling on these repairs” Journal of the Institute of Conservation, Volume 33, Issue 1 March 2010 (pp 41 – 63)
- Consider storage, housing and display issues unique to wooden board bindings.
- Discuss specific potential treatment options from examples that participants supply.
The registration fee for this 5-day workshop is $650.00. Other costs apply. Class size is limited to 10. For more information and to apply contact Justin Johnson at jjohnson (at) huntington (dot) org.










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